Questions you should never ask someone you meet in Goa...

My time in Goa flew by – who knew 3 months could go by so fast?  Now in Delhi, I've spent some time reflecting (and trying to remember) exactly where the time went.  Aside from dabbling as a Bollywood/ Bhangra DJ and dance instructor, I spent a lot of time exploring by scooty, watching the amazing sunsets (I know, I know, but they were so beautiful!), and hippy-ing out at the drum circle (who knew the djembe was so awesome?  ...now I do because I own one!)

Goa is state of mind more than anything.  Those who go there for the 'season' or longer than a short drunken holiday, really find like-minded people and a vibrant culture cultivated by those who have really invested in the 'goan culture' – the artists, musicians, entrepreneurs and adventurerers are everywhere.  Goa is also just plain fun, no matter how you look at it (remind me again why we say too much fun is a bad thing?)  One of my favorite things about Goa (aside from the amazing things that happen when my hair is exposed to saltwater every day) is the openess and judgement-free attitude – anyone can try anything (obviously this opens the gates for touts and frauds and crazies but it also gave me a platform to try things that I would have been wayyy too scared to do anywhere else).

It's hard to explain more than this, so instead I suggest you go there yourself to discover your own Goa, but whatever you do, definitely rent a hut on the beach (relax, some even have wireless).  Don't worry about what to do or what to say, but here are a few things not to say to be sure to gel with the hippies. A few questions you should never ask someone you meet in Goa...

6.  Are you a DJ?  (Because actually, every 2nd person is one!)

5.  What was Goa like in the [insert different decade here]? (You'll just feel depressed you missed Goa at its peak.)

4.  What do you do? (...to sustain this lifestyle for half the year).

3.  How many kids do you have at home?  (Or, are you running from anything else that I don't really want to know about?)

2.  Where are your shoes?  (I told you, it's a state of mind.  But, no, really, try walking around sans shoes.  It's so liberating!)

1.  OK, forget the shoes, but where are your clothes?  (...as opposed to the hippy ones you now wear OR, more likely, the ones that actually cover your body that you used to wear when you came from wherever you came from).

But, remember, it's totally acceptable for anyone and everyone to ask a person their age, because afterall age is just a number and it doesn't necessary 'correlate' like we think it would with question #4, which is obviously taboo.

As they say in Konkani (the official language of Goa), oh wait, I didn't learn any Konkani (I'm actually quite disappointed in myself for that one).  Anyway, as they say on the Goan beaches, shanti shanti!

The many beautiful people of Arambol

Here's a guest post from Mal (you may recognize her from my adventures in Singapore).

Arambol. Land of long sandy beaches, of great Italian pizza and cheap beer, the legendary paradise beach from the days of the hippie trail. The scene is alive and well, and full of fabulous Burning Man types, hot yoga bodies, and flower children. But there are a few other groups that you may not have expected. Here's a short introduction to the creatures you will find, roaming the beaches and sand bars of Goa.

7. Indian holiday-goers.

People normally talk about all of the expats and foreigners in Goa, but in reality tourism from within India is growing too. Many were on beach vacations, and many dudes were seen swimming in underwear. I guess swimwear isn't a trend there yet for single men? They seemed to be very amused by the hippie ladies and many fantastic photos were taken with groups of young Indian guys and a dreadlocked, leather bikini girl. Score! But really glad to see it's not just an enclave of foreigners.

6. Old Hippies.

These guys are the real deal. Some of them came to Goa for the first time in the 60's, back when there were no formal places to eat and the only place to stay was a tent on the beach. It was a legendary end destination for the hippie trail overland from Europe, through Turkey, Afghanistan, and Iran to India.  Some of them have stayed since then, but many come only for the Winters and return home when their six month visas are up. It appeared that many were bringing their adult daughters back to Arambol as a coming of age trip. I wish could have lived in a time when it was politically possible to make that amazing journey, or at least wish my parents were that cool!

5. Israeli backpackers with dreadlocks.

After completing compulsory military service, Israeli youth are set free and paid a few thousand dollars. So what to do? Travel around India and hang out in Goa for a few months? Why not! Arambol is full of young Israelis, trying to have a good time after a few years of strict military life. The restaurants even cater specifically to them and normally have an Israeli section on their menus. That said, I did have some delicious hummus and falafel. 

4. Drum circle enthusiasts.

Every evening at sunset there is a drum circle down the beach. At least ten to fifteen people get together and play music, while people dance, and vendors sell jewelry. There was also a cookie girl, and her chocolate chip was pretty awesome. Everyone dances together - from families with children, to hula hoop girls, to poi swingers and 60 year old women flapping their arms. Pretty dang glorious. And on my last day, I couldn't stand it any longer, so I bought a drum! A little late, but oh well, Munich summers will never be the same.

3. Russians in speedos.

Another surprise group is Russians. And not just fancy tourist Russians from Moscow, but young and middle aged budget tourists. Apparently there are many cheap flights from smaller towns all over Russia, flying direct to Goa and giving some people their first taste of the beach. (And escaping Winter!) I'd never really met young Russians backpacking before so it was very cool to meet some in Arambol. They can be identified by pale complexions, gold accessories, and large bald men in speedos.

2. Hula hoop professionals.

San Franciscans will know the hula hoop types. You know, those girls who can dance around with hoops gliding all over their body and you want to try too, but it just falls down and you look awkward? They are also in Arambol, often spotted near the daily sunset drum circle. Seems that it works wonders for abs too. And even children are into it. We saw an ad posted for hula hoop lessons with…a ten year old.  They can also be seen practicing in the sand before sunset, wearing iPods, exposing their midriffs,  and getting their picture taken with many large groups of Indian male tourists. Nice! (Example here) 

1. Kashmiri salesmen/ masters of the party schedule.

So where did we look to find out about parties? Online, posters, flyers? Nope. Since the police aren't very fond of parties in the area, they usually seem to be quite subtle in their marketing techniques. Which is why, when we wanted to know where the party was, we just stopped on the main road and asked the Kashmiri dudes who hung out on their motorcycles and ran shops. Two for one, if you need to know where a party is AND purchase a leather pouch.

We had an awesome time in Arambol, and although we had thought about taking the train to Kerala and seeing more of South India, it just happened that we stayed in the same place for 12 nights. The more Pooj, the better!  I must note that the one group I sadly did not identify in Arambol is Ravers. Ok ok, I know the 90s are over and all, but I thought at least a few would remain, glowsticking away in a remote corner of the world. I guess the Goan cops have done an excellent job of turning down the bass and the rave. Oh well, someday I will bring rave back and it will be epic. Just wait!

Until then, adieu and thanks Goa for helping me get over my fear of riding on motorcycles!

Mal

p.s. Thanks, Mal!  Like Mal says, Arambol is full of um, interesting people...! Some of my favorites are: Samurai Suzuki the Bob-Marley-singing/guitaring musician from Japan, Space Baba the staff-fire-dancing-hippie from Ecuador & Tony, the 7-year-old-DJ from England.  You gotta see it to believe it. 

3 things I miss about the Chenz

3.  Filter Coffee.  (I.hate.Nescafé.)

2.  Besant Nagar.  (It was like IFMR college)

1.  IDLY!  (Obvi.)

***

Hello from Goa!

I've been living in this bamboo hut+ (complete with a bathroom, electricity and wifi!) and will probably stay through February (or until I get bored, super famous or run out of money).

I'll be blogging regularly (again!).  My long (and romba pathetic) absence can be attributed to laziness, summer wedding(s) and being, well, jobless (it's funny how the more time you have, the less you actually have!)

As 2011 comes quickly to a close (ahh! can you believe it?)  I look back on this year of transition. Although I did not spend nearly enough time with family and friends back in the US, my year in India has been wonderful and full of amazing new and dear friends, newly developed hobbies like cooking (does mint chutney count?) and DJing (say hello to Arambol's only Bollywood & Bhangra DJ, DJ Rani!), and many many many adventures (and just as many misadventures) in navigating Chennai's dating scene, planning the future (including maintaining a positive bank balance), throwing crazy theme parties, experimenting in randomness (5 am yoga, composting, GMATing, OCI mishaps, avoiding Indo police & life sans Facebook) and of course, exploring my inner hippy.

Here's to wishing on a star (wahhh wahhh) for an even more exciting 2012!