Monday, January 16, 2012

The many beautiful people of Arambol

Here's a guest post from Mal (you may recognize her from my adventures in Singapore).

Arambol. Land of long sandy beaches, of great Italian pizza and cheap beer, the legendary paradise beach from the days of the hippie trail. The scene is alive and well, and full of fabulous Burning Man types, hot yoga bodies, and flower children. But there are a few other groups that you may not have expected. Here's a short introduction to the creatures you will find, roaming the beaches and sand bars of Goa.


7. Indian holiday-goers.
People normally talk about all of the expats and foreigners in Goa, but in reality tourism from within India is growing too. Many were on beach vacations, and many dudes were seen swimming in underwear. I guess swimwear isn't a trend there yet for single men? They seemed to be very amused by the hippie ladies and many fantastic photos were taken with groups of young Indian guys and a dreadlocked, leather bikini girl. Score! But really glad to see it's not just an enclave of foreigners.

6. Old Hippies.
These guys are the real deal. Some of them came to Goa for the first time in the 60's, back when there were no formal places to eat and the only place to stay was a tent on the beach. It was a legendary end destination for the hippie trail overland from Europe, through Turkey, Afghanistan, and Iran to India.  Some of them have stayed since then, but many come only for the Winters and return home when their six month visas are up. It appeared that many were bringing their adult daughters back to Arambol as a coming of age trip. I wish could have lived in a time when it was politically possible to make that amazing journey, or at least wish my parents were that cool!

5. Israeli backpackers with dreadlocks.
After completing compulsory military service, Israeli youth are set free and paid a few thousand dollars. So what to do? Travel around India and hang out in Goa for a few months? Why not! Arambol is full of young Israelis, trying to have a good time after a few years of strict military life. The restaurants even cater specifically to them and normally have an Israeli section on their menus. That said, I did have some delicious hummus and falafel. 

4. Drum circle enthusiasts.
Every evening at sunset there is a drum circle down the beach. At least ten to fifteen people get together and play music, while people dance, and vendors sell jewelry. There was also a cookie girl, and her chocolate chip was pretty awesome. Everyone dances together - from families with children, to hula hoop girls, to poi swingers and 60 year old women flapping their arms. Pretty dang glorious. And on my last day, I couldn't stand it any longer, so I bought a drum! A little late, but oh well, Munich summers will never be the same.

3. Russians in speedos.
Another surprise group is Russians. And not just fancy tourist Russians from Moscow, but young and middle aged budget tourists. Apparently there are many cheap flights from smaller towns all over Russia, flying direct to Goa and giving some people their first taste of the beach. (And escaping Winter!) I'd never really met young Russians backpacking before so it was very cool to meet some in Arambol. They can be identified by pale complexions, gold accessories, and large bald men in speedos.

2. Hula hoop professionals.
San Franciscans will know the hula hoop types. You know, those girls who can dance around with hoops gliding all over their body and you want to try too, but it just falls down and you look awkward? They are also in Arambol, often spotted near the daily sunset drum circle. Seems that it works wonders for abs too. And even children are into it. We saw an ad posted for hula hoop lessons with…a ten year old.  They can also be seen practicing in the sand before sunset, wearing iPods, exposing their midriffs,  and getting their picture taken with many large groups of Indian male tourists. Nice! (Example here

1. Kashmiri salesmen/ masters of the party schedule.
So where did we look to find out about parties? Online, posters, flyers? Nope. Since the police aren't very fond of parties in the area, they usually seem to be quite subtle in their marketing techniques. Which is why, when we wanted to know where the party was, we just stopped on the main road and asked the Kashmiri dudes who hung out on their motorcycles and ran shops. Two for one, if you need to know where a party is AND purchase a leather pouch.

We had an awesome time in Arambol, and although we had thought about taking the train to Kerala and seeing more of South India, it just happened that we stayed in the same place for 12 nights. The more Pooj, the better!  I must note that the one group I sadly did not identify in Arambol is Ravers. Ok ok, I know the 90s are over and all, but I thought at least a few would remain, glowsticking away in a remote corner of the world. I guess the Goan cops have done an excellent job of turning down the bass and the rave. Oh well, someday I will bring rave back and it will be epic. Just wait!

Until then, adieu and thanks Goa for helping me get over my fear of riding on motorcycles!
Mal



p.s. Thanks, Mal!  Like Mal says, Arambol is full of um, interesting people...! Some of my favorites are: Samurai Suzuki the Bob-Marley-singing/guitaring musician from Japan, Space Baba the staff-fire-dancing-hippie from Ecuador & Tony, the 7-year-old-DJ from England.  You gotta see it to believe it. 

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